Cotton, Synthetics, and Animal Fibers: High-Risk Textiles for Fashion Brands Under the CSDDD

The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) places rigorous expectations on fashion brands, requiring them to identify, mitigate, and report on environmental and social impacts across their supply chains. Some commonly used textiles, including cotton, polyester, and animal-based fibers, pose significant compliance challenges due to environmental impact, labor concerns, and ethical issues. Here’s a closer look at these high-risk textiles and how fashion brands can address the associated risks to meet CSDDD requirements.

Cotton: Water Use, Pesticides, and Labor Concerns

Why It’s High-Risk: Conventional cotton farming is one of the most water-intensive and pesticide-heavy agricultural processes, leading to soil degradation and water pollution. Additionally, forced labor in cotton production, especially in regions like Uzbekistan and Xinjiang, raises serious ethical concerns.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: Fashion brands can minimize these risks by sourcing organic or Fair Trade-certified cotton, which limits pesticide use and promotes fair labor standards. It’s also important to establish traceable supply chains that verify compliance at each stage of the production chain. This critical for both transparency and regulatory compliance, while enabling brands to make strategic sourcing decisions about where they get their materials.

Polyester and Other Synthetics: Microplastics and Carbon Footprint

Why It’s High-Risk: Polyester, a widely used synthetic fiber, is derived from petroleum, making it non-renewable, non-biodegradable, and energy-intensive. Microplastics released during washing add to environmental pollution, affecting marine ecosystems.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: To reduce reliance on virgin polyester, brands can consider high-quality recycled polyester, which meets aesthetic and functional standards. Brands should also educate consumers on responsible washing practices to minimize microplastic pollution, aligning with environmental goals under the CSDDD.

Viscose/Rayon: Deforestation and Chemical Hazards

Why It’s High-Risk: Viscose is derived from wood pulp, and unsustainable sourcing can lead to deforestation and loss of biodiversity. Moreover, viscose production often involves harmful chemicals, including carbon disulfide, which affect worker health and surrounding ecosystems.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: Brands should prioritize sourcing from certified sustainable suppliers, such as those endorsed by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or the CanopyStyle initiative, which advocate responsible forestry practices. Closed-loop production, which captures and recycles chemicals, can also help brands meet environmental standards set by the CSDDD.

Wool: Greenhouse Gas Emissions and Animal Welfare

Why It’s High-Risk: Wool production generates greenhouse gases, primarily methane from sheep, and raises animal welfare concerns, particularly in practices like mulesing in sheep farming.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: Brands should seek wool suppliers that adhere to high animal welfare and environmental standards, such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). Additionally, carbon offset initiatives or sourcing from lower-impact wool alternatives can help reduce the overall footprint associated with wool production.

Leather: Chemical Use and Resource Intensity

Why It’s High-Risk: Leather production is highly resource-intensive, often involving toxic chemicals like chromium in the tanning process. This can lead to water pollution and poses serious environmental and health risks. Animal welfare is also a concern, along with the broader environmental impact of livestock farming.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: Fashion brands can mitigate leather’s environmental impact by working with certified suppliers who use eco-friendly tanning processes, such as vegetable tanning. Exploring sustainable alternatives, like plant-based or lab-grown leather, offers an innovative way to align with the CSDDD’s sustainability requirements.

Cashmere and Other Animal Fibers: Overgrazing and Ecological Impact

Why It’s High-Risk: The production of cashmere and other luxury fibers can lead to overgrazing, land degradation, and desertification, especially in regions like Mongolia where unsustainable grazing practices are common. Variations in animal welfare standards also add risk.

CSDDD Compliance Strategy: Fashion brands should work with suppliers that promote sustainable grazing practices, such as those endorsed by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA). Exploring recycled cashmere or alternative fibers can reduce the demand on traditional sources, aligning with the CSDDD’s commitment to responsible sourcing.

Turning Compliance into an Opportunity for Responsible Sourcing

For fashion brands, meeting CSDDD standards in textile sourcing means actively addressing environmental and social risks at each level of the supply chain. Brands that commit to sustainable practices and engage responsibly with suppliers will be well-prepared to comply with CSDDD regulations and appeal to a growing base of eco-conscious consumers.

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Implementing responsible sourcing practices not only meets regulatory demands but also enhances brand value and consumer trust.